Bon chic bon genre & old money: Ivan Aguilar dives into the 1980s to evoke the return of male vanity

The fashion show of the Wall Street 24/25 collection takes place on December 11th at 8:15 PM at Espaço Patrick Ribeiro in Vitória/ES

A collection that focuses on male empowerment and the freedom to dress without constraints, even though it does not focus on modernities. How so? For Ivan Aguilar, the 1980s are the trigger for the resurgence of the vain man – the same one who had been neutralized by the Fall of the Bastille and silenced by the Industrial Revolution, when the male desire to adorn himself was torpedoed by rigid customs that prioritized the seriousness of a new bourgeois, mercantile, and industrial lifestyle, cutting off creativity in convergence with the new codes of behavior that deprived him of daydreaming. For this new batch of timeless pieces, which will be launched with a fashion show at Espaço Patrick Ribeiro in Vitória on December 11th, what matters is the break from these nearly 250 years of stuffiness, even though the designer invests in a men's fashion that is palatable for the Brazilian in general, without succumbing to runway trends. A native of Minas Gerais, now based in Espírito Santo, with a career that has taken him to Rio de Janeiro, with numerous shows at Fashion Rio, and even to the Big Apple, with occasional presence at New York Fashion Week, the designer and businessman remains true to his vision of fashion. With sartoria su misura in the capital of Espírito Santo and a flagship store in Praia do Canto, he bets on delight without giving up the classic sense of masculinity, although he is open to all the breadth that traditional tailoring can embrace.

“I don't seek to reinvent the wheel, but to improve it; nor do I intend to be disruptive, but to continue in the effective formula bon chic bon genre that has Italy and Saville Row in London as epicenters. My territory is a contemporary look at this old money style that flirts with the classic without transgression, but can be fun, while at the same time avoiding the straitjacket of commercial departments that today restrict global creation,” says Ivan. “I own my own business. I like to make money, but I do what gives me pleasure,” he adds.

[gallery size="medium" type="columns" ids="46483,46484,46485,46487,46489"] An expert in precise cuts and the precious finishes with which he enhances his experiences with shades, patterns, and textures, Ivan Aguilar has been in the segment for 45 years and is one of those who are enchanted by the lost decade. For him, it is precisely the eighties that hold the key to the new elegant and creative man, the one who let himself be carried away by fashion when it became fashion, or rather, big fashion, and found his voice, especially from the New Millennium onwards. However, this is not about a man in a skirt, nor about inventions in modeling that exceed the (almost) common sense of Brazilians feeling chic without causing a stir, afraid of appearing eccentric. Ivan navigates a quiet luxury universe understandable to those who are not fashionistas but want to dress very well. And who can push the envelope, here or there, without exaggeration. That’s why, fascinated by the 1980s, he draws inspiration from cinema classics such as “The Untouchables” (1985) by Brian De Palma, “Wall Street – Money Never Sleeps” (1987) by Oliver Stone, or Harrison Ford's look in “Working Girl” (1988) by Mike Nichols, seminal cinematic works from that period. For Ivan, it was during this time that designers like Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren brought men's fashion into the spotlight, pulling it out of the shadow of women's fashion, naturally forcing a “narcissistic break” for the male consumer by making him realize that he could have money but not dress well.

According to Ivan, “it was when men fully surrendered to jewelry, proudly wearing Rolex and Patek Philippe watches just as women displayed Tiffany. At that moment, luxury expanded into the male universe beyond cars, yachts, and mansions, with the assurance that there were good designers taking care of appearances. It's a matter of self-esteem: out goes Studio 54 and in comes the gym; the hedonism transforms into logomania. And the trio of sex, drugs, and rock’n’roll turns into well-being, health, and the pursuit of the perfect body.”

Strong points: contrast of shapes that are loose and fitted to the body, blazers without shoulder pads, wide pants with high waist, handmade finishing, logomania, small tie patterns even in shirts. Materials: pure linen, pure wool, 100% cotton, and silk. Colors: white, off-white, beige, cream, fendi, forest green, gold yellow, curry, navy blue, light gray, and graphite.   Service: Ivan Aguilar – Fashion Show 24/25 Date: December 11th (Wednesday), at 8:15 PM, Espaço Patrick Ribeiro in Vitória/ES Contacts: (27) 99942-5998 or (27) 99581-9204 Instagram: @ivan_aguilarofficial Press communication for national media: Scena Lúdica Alexandre Schnabl Contact: (21) 99055-8492 schnabl@scenaludica.com.br   Press communication for Espírito Santo media: RF Comunicação Rose Frizzera (Director) Contact: (27) 99989-2739   Mariana Ferreira (Service) Contact: (27) 99877-6277 redacao@rfcomunicacao.com.br